South, especially!

Over the years, I’ve watched chef Venkatesh Bhat transform from enthusiastic chef in a five-star hotel into savvy entrepreneur.
Despite the scepticism of some, he’s created not one, but three standalone South Indian restaurants, going beyond the idli-dosa-kharabhath routine and serving the classic cooking of this region in a stylish setting. Bon South, which opened in Koramangala, now has another version at the Mantri Square mall, which continues to be a let’s-go-take-a-dekko destination in these parts.You may not wish to jostle with the gawping crowds, but Bon South is an indubitably good reason to go to this mall.
The space adopts a minimalist style and has a clean, clutter-free air about it. I did, though, find the lighting a little too bright for the evening.
I invited Geetanjali Kirloskar for lunch here, and she told me she’s been most impressed with the creations of Chef Venkatesh Bhat, whose food she’s tasted in the past. The multi-faceted lady is a vegetarian, but had no lack of choice at the new Bon South. For starters, the chef assembled a vegetarian platter of vendakkai varuval, melagai podi button idli, which she loved, and cabbage vada. And she said a firm ‘no’ to the paneer porichathu or babycorn mallige. “I don’t see their place on a south Indian menu,” Geetanjali told me. I agree entirely.
I quite enjoyed the meen kaiadhina, fillet of gently seasoned basa rava-fried, and the Chettinad-style kariveppilai kozhi varuval.
Geetanjali’s main course included kaikari mandi, the melange of indigenous veggies in a thin broth, and harasoppu huli, and she found the greens in a slightly sweet-tart sauce to be just right. The accompaniment was multi-grain Visalakshi roti, which was perfect for this very health-conscious eater. You don’t get to be her shape, otherwise. But she did relent, and have a taste of the kashi halva, relishing its camphor and saffron aromas.
I returned for dinner another night and had, for starters, the superb mutton ularthiyathu, menthi kodi from Andhra and pudugai eraal varuval wrapped in a masala of mint and coriander. I loved all the curries I tasted; such a palate-refreshing change from the assault of the tomato-cream gravy one gets everywhere!
The vegetarian dishes, kaaya kooralu igguru, mixed vegetables in a tomato curry thickened with gram flour, and the bhindi saagle, were flawless as was the batata pattani capsicum kuruma. Eat these with veechu parota, appam or neer dosa. I loved the combination of the naadan kozhi chaaru with idiappam as well. And if you wish to indulge, try the lobster thokku.
This time for dessert it was the paal paniaram for me and I think Bon South is the only restaurant in the city which serves this earthy sweet from Chettinad. It was a happy note on which to end an utterly satisfying meal. Geetanjali told me her test of a restaurant is whether she would want to return to it, and Bon South passes effortlessly.
Meal for two will cost Rs 800 or thereabouts, without drinks. There’s a well-stocked bar with a decent wine list and a single malt collection as well. Service is efficient.
priya.bala@timesgroup.com